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    Blog — Fabric

    Rose Pants from Made by Rae

    When not one, but TWO of our EWE staff test sewed — and immediately loved — the newest pattern from Made by Rae, we knew we had found a new go-to for a wardrobe staple. The Rose Pants are everything we want in a sewing pattern: well-drafted, offered in an inclusive size range, clearly illustrated and accessibly written, thoroughly tested, and with several options for customization. Oh, and they look amazing on everyone!

    About the pattern 

    Available as a PDF download from Made by Rae's site, the Rose pattern includes instructions for high waisted pants (long or cropped) and shorts. The design features slash front pockets, instructions for various pleats or gathers at the waist, and a flat front waistband with elastic in the back.

    We are especially excited that the Rose Pants pattern is the first to be released in Made by Rae’s new size range. The pattern includes 11 sizes, ranging from an XXS- 5X,  designed to fit hip measurements of 34.5” to 59”.

    Our versions

    Jacqui wears the size 3, based on her measurements of a 42" waist and 52" hip.  She used the Brussels Washer in Navy. Jacqui sewed the full length pants, and used the double pleats provided in the pattern for the pants front.    

    Jessamy sewed the XS based on her measurements of a 28” waist and 36” hip. She used the Viscose-Linen blend in Olive for the shorts version. Jessamy choose to use the single pleat option also included in the pattern.  Jessamy also preferred to use one piece of 1.5” wide elastic in the back casing instead of 2 pieces of 3/4” wide elastic.  The pattern has instructions for sewing a two channel casing using the 3/4” wide elastic or a single channel casing for the 1.5” elastic.

    Fabric ideas

    The Rose pattern is intended for light to mid weight woven fabrics. Rae recommends fabrics that have a good drape, and a looser weave, making linen and linen blends a perfect match for Rose. Jacqui sewed her pants using Brussels Washer Linen, which is 55% linen, 45% rayon blend. Brussels Washer is a great staple garment fabric, the rayon content provides a lovely drape, and prevents the fabric from becoming overly wrinkly throughout the day.  While the linen content keeps it light and breathable, perfect for a pair of crop pants or shorts for summer.

    Jessamy sewed her shorts in the Viscose-Linen in Olive.  The Viscose-Linen is also a linen blend, and it is made of 70% viscose (which is a bamboo rayon) and 30% linen.  It’s slightly heavier than the Brussels washer linen, but it also has more drape, due to the higher viscose content.  The slubby texture lends a soft hand to the fabric.

    Other fabrics in the shop that would be great for the Rose pattern would be any of these great fabrics, such as the Birch Organic Yarn Dyed linens, European Merchant and Mills linens, Tencel Twill and Silk Noil.

    If you prefer cotton, we also have a great selection of Ikats that are 100% cotton, handwoven in India. These Ikats are all mid to light weight and would make a stunning pair of Rose pants.

    Pattern difficulty

    If you are new to pants sewing, the Rose pattern is a great place to start. The style is easy to fit and comfortable to wear while still looking put together. Made by Rae’s patterns come with clear instructions geared to an advanced beginner. The pattern walks you through every step of construction, and provides you with many insights about pants fitting along the way.

    We hope we have inspired you to sew up a pair of your own! And if you think you need a little extra help, stay tuned — we'll be announcing dates for a Rose pants class at our shop in Charlottesville soon.

    *Our Rose Pants notions special had ended.

    Fabric File- Corduroy

    Hello EWE Makers! I’m here today to introduce you to a new blog series we’ll be doing.  We are always striving to provide the best materials we can for whatever projects you want to make.  As the shop has expanded to carry fabric, I thought it would be nice to provide some background about the fabrics we have selected.  So let's learn about some fabric and find a little bit of sewing inspiration along the way.

    Today I’m highlighting the two different types of corduroy in the shop.  They are both 100% cotton, but the similarities end there. Corduroy is often described with a number and wale; the number refers to how many wales (or cords) per inch there are in the fabric.  Thus, the higher the number, the finer the wales, the lower the number, the wider the wales.  Corduroy usually has a nap or pile to the fabric.  This means the fabric will look slightly different when viewed from a different angle. Due to this nap, your pattern pieces should all be aligned in the same direction when cutting.  The two corduroys we are currently carrying are vary different in terms of weight and wale, and we love them both for different projects!

    First up is a 6 wale (or wide wale) “vintage” corduroy by Télio.  This is a medium weight fabric, weighing 8.4 oz per square yard, or 285 GSM.  It is wonderfully soft with a nice drape.  Wide wale corduroy is often used in pants, but we also love this one for unstructured jackets.  We have four versatile colors of this unique fabric.

    It is a perfect match for a transitional spring jacket such as the Wiksten Haori or Deer and Do Nenuphar Jacket.  Both jackets feature a loose fit, and japanese inspired details.  The Wiksten Haori is fully lined with deep patch pockets.  We sewed this one up as a shop sample and lined it with Mammoth Flannel and love how soft and cozy this jacket is.

    The Nenuphar Jacket has a beautiful cut collar detail and bell sleeves, giving it a slightly dressier look. View A features 3/4 length sleeves and patch pockets, while view B has long gathered sleeves.

    The second corduroy we have is a much lighter weight and finer wale.  It is a 21 wale, meaning it has 21 cords per inch and is often referred to as pincord. This lighter weight corduroy weighs 4.46 oz per square yard, is 100% cotton, and we are carrying it in four easy to wear colors.

     

    The 21 wale corduroy is perfect for a Hinterland Dress.  The Hinterland dress is a shop favorite.  You can usually find one of us wearing this versatile dress on any given day!  The Hinterland features three sleeve options, with a gathered easy to wear skirt.  You can choose from a partial or full button placket, but if you are not feeling up to the task, you can leave the placket off all together for a simpler look (and easier construction!)  

    The Emerson Crop Pants are an easy to wear elastic waist pant by True Bias.  It features a flat front waist band with flattering pleats, with the option to sew a mid or high rise waist.

      

    We hope you’re feeling inspired for some corduroy sewing! Thank you for reading our first edition of Fabric File.